Aubry Fils

NV 55% Pinot Meunier, 25% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier ad Fromenteau
Champagne, France, $44.99

Meunier expresses here as barley, rusks, crackers, and so the wine is rusky, coppery-saline, iodé, mineral and appetizing.  It’s beautifully expressive of a corner of Champagne, and tastes as though it were fined with sel gris.  This year it’s 50% 2013 and 50% a perpetual reserve started in 1998. Deg 1/2016, it’s 55% Meunier (higher than usual), 25% CH, 20% PN and 5% “other” (which means basically everything that wouldn’t fit in the vats); it’s in form, brassy and oyster; after a dip a couple years ago (for which we have our old friend 2011 to thank) this is better than ever. – Terry Theise